It's that time of year again and my neighbors are all starting to worry about the mice coming into their new homes since this time last year this subdivision was A FIELD. I did a little research and this is what I found. Very interesting stuff on a very uninteresting subject.
The house mouse is one of the most troublesome and economically important rodents in the United States. House mice thrive under a variety of conditions; they are found in and around homes and commercial structures as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. House mice consume and contaminate food meant for humans, pets, livestock, or other animals. In addition, they cause considerable damage to structures and property, and they can transmit pathogens that cause diseases such as salmonellosis, a form of food poisoning. Plus we hate them!
House mice are small rodents with relatively large ears and small black eyes. They weigh about 1/2 ounce and usually are light brownish to gray in color. An adult is about 5 to 7 inches long, including the 3- to 4-inch tail. Ugly little creatures!
Droppings, fresh gnaw marks, and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests are made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, usually in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are active mostly at night, but they can be seen occasionally during daylight hours. Oh My Gosh!
Although house mice usually prefer to eat cereal grains, they are "nibblers" and will sample many different foods, the mice last year ate through my son's back pack in the garage to get to an old pack of crackers. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell, and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up to 12 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. Mice can squeeze through openings slightly larger than 1/4 inch across. House mice frequently find their way into homes in the fall of the year, when outdoor temperatures at night become colder.
In a single year, a female may have 5 to 10 litters of about 5 or 6 young. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they reach reproductive maturity in 6 to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is probably 9 to 12 months. Can you Imagine??
Because house mice are so small, they can gain entry into homes and other buildings much more easily than rats. As a result, house mouse infestations are probably 10 to 20 times more common than rat infestations. Effective control involves sanitation, exclusion, and population reduction. Sanitation and exclusion are preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction such as trapping or baiting is almost always necessary.
A key to successful long-term mouse control is the limitation of shelter and of food sources wherever possible. Trapping works well when mice are not numerous, or it can be used as a follow-up measure after a baiting program. When considering a baiting program, decide if the presence of dead mice will cause an odor or sanitation problem. If so, trapping may be the best approach. Removal of mice should be followed by taking steps to exclude them so that the problem does not recur.
Several types of rodenticides are used in baits. The anticoagulant rodenticides are most commonly available and can be used in and around buildings. Because all rodenticides are toxic to humans, pets, and wildlife, take special precautions to prevent the poisoning of nontarget animals.
Because mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter, their control can be very challenging, especially in and around older structures. Most buildings in which food is stored, handled, or used will support house mice if the mice are not excluded, no matter how good the sanitation. While good sanitation will seldom completely control mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to hide, rest, or build nests and rear their young, they cannot survive in large numbers.
Exclusion is the most successful and permanent form of house mouse control. "Build them out" by eliminating all gaps and openings larger than ¼ inch, through which mice will enter a structure. Steel wool makes a good temporary plug. Seal cracks in building foundations and around openings for water pipes, vents, and utility cables with metal or concrete. Doors, windows, and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges of doors and windows with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic screening, rubber or vinyl, insulating foam, wood, and other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice.
Trapping is an effective method for controlling small numbers of house mice. Although time-consuming, it is the preferred method in homes, garages, and other structures where only a few mice are present. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on potentially hazardous rodenticides; (2) it permits the user to view his or her success; and (3) it allows for disposal of trapped mice, thereby eliminating dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
Simple, inexpensive, wood-based snap traps are effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Traps can be baited with a variety of foods; peanut butter is the most popular because it is easy to use and very attractive to mice. Set the triggers lightly so the traps will spring easily.
Multiple-capture live traps for mice, such as the Victor Tin Cat and the Ketch-All, also are available from hardware stores and pest control suppliers. They can catch several mice at a time without being reset, so labor requirements are reduced.
Set traps behind objects, in dark corners, and in places where there is evidence of mouse activity. Place them close to walls so mice will pass directly over the trigger. Traps can be set on ledges, on top of pallets of stored materials, or in any other locations where mice are active. Use enough traps to make the trapping period short and decisive. Mice seldom venture far from their shelter and food supply, so space traps no more than about 10 feet apart in areas where mice are active.
An alternative to traps are glue boards, which catch and hold mice that are attempting to cross them, in much the same way flypaper catches flies. They are available at many places where other rodent control products are sold. Place glue boards along walls where mice travel. Do not use them where children, pets, or desirable wildlife can contact them. Nontarget animals that become caught on the glue board can be removed in most cases by using vegetable oil as a solvent to loosen the glue. Glue boards lose their effectiveness in dusty areas unless covered. Extreme temperatures also may affect the tackiness of glue boards.
One problem with live-catch traps and glue boards is that you need to dispose of the live mice. Cervical dislocation is an acceptable method of euthanasia. For mice caught on glue boards, this means taking a sturdy rod or stick and delivering a sharp blow to the base of the skull. Drowning is not considered humane, although it is sometimes suggested by trap manufacturers. Releasing live-caught mice back to the outdoors frequently promotes increased mouse problems.
Baits to control rodents are formulated with an attractant (generally food) and a rodenticide (toxin). Most rodenticides used to control mice around the home are already mixed with an attractant in commercially ready-to-use baits. The rodenticides in these baits are either anticoagulants or other rodenticides such as single-dose toxicants and chronic rodenticides.
Anticoagulant Rodenticides. Anticoagulants cause death as a result of internal bleeding, which occurs as the animal's blood loses the ability to clot and capillaries are damaged. The active ingredients are used at very low levels and the onset of symptoms is delayed, so the rodent does not avoid the bait janie masterson because of its taste or the onset of illness. When prepared with good-quality cereals and other bait ingredients, all anticoagulant baits provide good to excellent house mouse control if placed in suitable locations for the mice.
Electronic Devices
Although mice are easily frightened by strange or unfamiliar noises, they quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing, have very limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. They also lose their intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that electronic, sound, magnetic, or vibration devices of any kind will drive established mice or rats from buildings or provide adequate control. Despite their lack of effectiveness, many such devices continue to be sold through magazine advertisements and at some retail outlets.
Some dogs and cats will catch and kill mice and rats. There are few situations, however, in which they will sufficiently control rodent populations. Around most structures, mice can find many places to hide and rear their young out of the reach of such predators. Cats probably cannot eliminate existing mouse populations, but in some situations they may be able to prevent reinfestation once mice have been controlled. In urban and suburban areas, it is not uncommon to find rodents living in close association with cats and dogs, relying on cat and dog food for nourishment. Mice frequently live beneath doghouses and soon learn they can feed on dog food when the dog is absent or asleep.
Call in the BIG GUYS ~~The pest control experts are definately your best bet if you have a problem.
www.janiemasterson.com janie@janiemasterson.com
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