Problems with a wet foundation tend to run higher than other physical problems with a house. Damp or wet basements can be an extremely challenging problem to fix. Most basements are built into or partially into the ground. This can lead to the walls and flooring absorbing the moisture from outside, ultimately producing such problems as: water stains, cracks, odors, mold infestation, house dust mites, and etc. When buying a house it is highly recommended to hire an inspector to assess the structure of the house and give you a list problems and potential fixes that they can see wrong before buying the property.

Potential Causes

Inadequate gutter system

Improper lawn grading or landscaping

Leaves or debris - may have clogged gutters or window wells

Windows and Doors – Check for leaks and gaps.

HVAC System – Check for proper drainage. One of the functions of a proper heating and air conditioning system is to reduce ambient air moisture level throughout the house.

Condensation – can be from hot and cold water pipes or outside moisture

Leaky Pipes – including ones that are behind the walls can be hard to detect.

Heavy Rainfall

Vents and Chimneys – These should have appropriate hoods and exhaust to the outside. They need to maintained or checked regularly so they are in constant working order.

Signs to look for:

Bad odor - excessive moisture creates and unmistakable musty smell.

Water Stains – from leaky pipes or cracks in the exterior walls

Cracks - in the foundation and in the exterior walls.

Windows and Doors – Check for leaks and gaps.

Mold- can range in color. Such as black, pink, brown, yellow, white. Even if the mold in your house is not the toxic variety

it is important to eradicate it and fix the source of the problem. Mold can cause deterioration of the house and can affect you and your loved ones health.

Efflorescence

Spalling

Leaks – can come in around windows and doors.

Simple Solutions

Dehumidifier- this is a good immediate and temporary fix for slight dampness.

Cover exposed earth areas with plastic sheeting to help keep the moisture levels down.

Make sure your downspouts are pointed away from the house

Clean and maintain your gutters on a regular basis

Add more ventilation – Opening windows and doors on nice days can help with letting moisture escape.

Professional Help

Insulation- Adding insulation behind the walls in your basement can reduce condensation by making cold surfaces slightly warmer

Sealing the ductwork – HV/AC systems can leak conditioned air wasting your money and can let moisture escape.

Making sure all holes and joints in the ductwork are sealed can help with this problem

Wrapping pipes – It is a good idea to have foam insulation covering the hot and cold water pipes to help reduce the condensation as well as conserve energy.

Waterproofing

Sump Pump – Install or maintain a sump pump. This device can pump water away from the foundation to the street up to 20 feet away

Replace windows and doors that are old or deteriorated that are not able to be water/moisture resistant anymore.

Gradation of the yard – make sure water runoff flows away from the foundation of your home.

Weather-Stripping – Old or improperly installed weather-stripping can let in moisture and leaks.

A home can be flooded for a variety of reasons. It is extremely important to act quickly and thoroughly if your home is flooded. Make sure you know where your shut off valves are. Make sure there are no exposed electrical wires or cords in the standing water. Immediately remove standing water and all damp materials. Hire a qualified inspector to inspect and assess the damage and help you prevent further damage and do necessary repairs. By addressing the problem quickly and appropriately you can greatly minimize further damage and future problems.

If you are looking to buy a new home, but do not want to spend money on a home inspector because you prefer to do the inspection yourself, then it is important that you do the inspection correctly. In order to complete a proper inspection, it is important to consider the following home inspection tips. First of all, keep in mind that once you begin with the inspection, make sure to focus on every aspect of the home, both the interior and exterior of the property. The first of the home inspection tips that you should focus on is examining the exterior of the home. Once you begin inspecting the property, it is always a good idea to start from one point of the exterior, and then to gradually move in one direction around the home until you land the back at the same point once again. While you are doing this, begin your inspection by examining the top of the house, and then slowly working your way down bit by bit. By taking this approach, you will be creating an effective system that ensures that you do not miss out on anything.

Once you begin inspecting the interior of the house, you should take the same approach as you would when you were examining the exterior. This leads us to another one of the home inspection tips that you should focus on; do your best to focus on important factors such as structural damage, electrical system, the plumbing system, and the heating system. In the end, you want to make sure that the overall structure of the house is in sound condition, because this will be the most expensive to fix if you are caught off guard.

As you begin looking for these defects, keep in mind to focus on one room at a time, and then to gradually work your way around the whole house until you have looked at every room. Another important point to keep in mind when looking at home inspection tips is how you will go about recording any damages that you might have found. The best way is to draw up a checklist that allows you to easily cross a column or row for each aspect that you are looking into. By taking this approach, you will not have to do too much writing, and this in turn will ensure that you focus most of your attention on actually looking for damage than writing up a report. By taking this approach, you will find that you are less likely to make any mistakes as you go about inspecting your potential house, thus ensuring that when you do make payment, you can feel comfortable knowing that you have purchased the perfect home for you and your family.

The home owner had the pressure treated decking and railing removed. The contractor install hardwood Cumaru. We stained the Cumaru with Cabot Timer Oil Natural and used a semi solid Cabot oil on the lattic. For Potomac deck refinishing, roof soft washing, and pressure washing call Carlton Cleans 301-906-4446.

Agents and home owners. Read the quality/condition ratings prior to an appraiser inspecting the property than gather all your documentation regarding home repair and upgrades. This information will help the appraiser to choose the most accurate rating. 

AGENTS: You are a very important part of the new formatting.  Appraiser's need more detail. For example, total basement sf, basement finished sf and basement rooms (this should be in every listing). Many agents simply are not taking the time to accurately complete the mls listing. Dates for repairs and upgrades and quality level of upgrades is important. Receipts are hopeful. Write a list of all repairs and upgrades with brand information ect........ Accurately provide basement info, provide accurate repair/upgrade information and provide prior sketches, plats ect..... to the appraiser.  The better job agents do in the mls system than the appraisal industry can use the information to meet the GSE's new formatting regulations and use the information to support value opinion. 

Condition

C1 

The improvements have been very recently constructed and have not previously been occupied. The entire structure and all components are new and the dwelling features no physical depreciation.* 

*Note: Newly constructed improvements that feature recycled materials and/or components can be considered new dwellings provided that the dwelling is placed on a 100% new foundation and the recycled materials and the recycled components have been rehabilitated/re-manufactured into like-new condition. Recently constructed improvements that have not been previously occupied are not considered “new” if they have any significant physical depreciation (i.e., newly constructed dwellings that have been vacant for an extended period of time without adequate maintenance or upkeep). 


C2 

The improvements feature no deferred maintenance, little or no physical depreciation, and require no repairs. Virtually all building components are new or have been recently repaired, refinished, or rehabilitated. All outdated components and finishes have been updated and/or replaced with components that meet current standards. Dwellings in this category either are almost new or have been recently completely renovated and are similar in condition to new construction. 


C3 

The improvements are well maintained and feature limited physical depreciation due to normal wear and tear. Some components, but not every major building component, may be updated or recently rehabilitated. The structure has been well maintained. 


C4 

The improvements feature some minor deferred maintenance and physical deterioration due to normal wear and tear. The dwelling has been adequately maintained and requires only minimal repairs to building components/mechanical systems and cosmetic repairs. All major building components have been adequately maintained and are functionally adequate. 


C5 

The improvements feature obvious deferred maintenance and are in need of some significant repairs. Some building components need repairs, rehabilitation, or updating. The functional utility and overall livability is somewhat diminished due to condition, but the dwelling remains useable and functional as a residence. 


C6 

The improvements have substantial damage or deferred maintenance with deficiencies or defects that are severe enough to affect the safety, soundness, or structural integrity of the improvements. The improvements are in need of substantial repairs and rehabilitation, including many or most major components.

Quality

Q1 

Dwellings with this quality rating are usually unique structures that are individually designed by an architect for a specified user. Such residences typically are constructed from detailed architectural plans and specifications and feature an exceptionally high level of workmanship and exceptionally high-grade materials throughout the interior and exterior of the structure. The design features exceptionally high-quality exterior refinements and ornamentation, and exceptionally high-quality interior refinements. The workmanship, materials, and finishes throughout the dwelling are of exceptionally high quality. 


Q2 

Dwellings with this quality rating are often custom designed for construction on an individual property owner’s site. However, dwellings in this quality grade are also found in high-quality tract developments featuring residences constructed from individual plans or from highly modified or upgraded plans. The design features detailed, high-quality exterior ornamentation, high-quality interior refinements, and detail. The workmanship, materials, and finishes throughout the dwelling are generally of high or very high quality. 


Q3 

Dwellings with this quality rating are residences of higher quality built from individual or readily available designer plans in above-standard residential tract developments or on an individual property owner’s site. The design includes significant exterior ornamentation and interiors that are well finished. The workmanship exceeds acceptable standards and many materials and finishes throughout the dwelling have been upgraded from “stock” standards. 


Q4 

Dwellings with this quality rating meet or exceed the requirements of applicable building codes. Standard or modified standard building plans are utilized and the design includes adequate fenestration and some exterior ornamentation and interior refinements. Materials, workmanship, finish, and equipment are of stock or builder grade and may feature some upgrades. 


Q5 

Dwellings with this quality rating feature economy of construction and basic functionality as main considerations. 
Such dwellings feature a plain design using readily available or basic floor plans featuring minimal fenestration and basic finishes with minimal exterior ornamentation and limited interior detail. These dwellings meet minimum 
building codes and are constructed with inexpensive, stock materials with limited refinements and upgrades.

Q6 

Dwellings with this quality rating are of basic quality and lower cost; some may not be suitable for year-round occupancy. Such dwellings are often built with simple plans or without plans, often utilizing the lowest quality building materials. Such dwellings are often built or expanded by persons who are professionally unskilled or possess only minimal construction skills. Electrical, plumbing, and other mechanical systems and equipment may be minimal or non-existent. Older dwellings may feature one or more substandard or non-conforming additions to the original structure.

The GSE's implemented new formatting for real estate appraiser in Sept. 2011. The new formatting provides the ability of the GSE's to import the appraisal report into a computer model and run analytics on the information. The report can be compared to other reports in the market area to verify reasonableness of the adjustments and opinion of value based on the feature set and quality/condition ratings. This ability to review and quantify prior to loan funding has opened the appraisal ordering process back to traditional practice. Yes, the HVCC has expired and a loan officer/home owner can order an appraisal for purchase or refi. However, make sure you choose a lender who has updated their internal policies to reflect the GSE's policy change. This policy change back to traditional business practices with better over sight is a great move forward for the industry. Now it's up to the lenders to reinstate policies away from the appraisal management company model (shortest turn time and cheapest) to local experienced appraisers. Thorough analysis and investigation takes time and based on a small sample of review work I completed over the last two years some appraiser's are not taking the time to properly develop an appraisal report.

Carlton Mitchell 

Certified Appraiser

www.appraisersoncall.com

301-906-4446

If you are in the process of selling or re-financing your home, a home appraisal will in all likelihood be part of the process.  In fact, in today’s real estate market, the home appraisal is often the make-or-break key to determining whether or not the deal can go through.  Therefore, it is essential as a homeowner to do everything possible to maximize the value an appraiser will determine for your home.  Though the lot size, square footage and building materials are the biggest determinant of the final value, the condition of the home will have a large impact on the figure that the appraiser determines.

When preparing for an appraisal it is best to take a systematic approach.  Begin with the exterior.  Inspect all of the windows on the home for missing or broken screens or shutters.  If there is extensive grime on one or more walls of the house, a pressure-washing may be in order.  Remove any trash and dead plant matter from the yard.  Inspect the shrubbery around the house, trim any that is overgrown, and remove dead or dying plants.  If the appraisal is in the summertime, regularly water the yard for at least two weeks before the appraisal to improve the quality of the lawn.  Inspect doors and frames for chipped paint.  If you only have time for one paint project, the front door and door frame are the most important.

As far as the interior goes, the first and most important requirement is for the home to be clean and tidy.  In addition to standard cleaning items such as dishes, and vacuuming, homeowners should look to remove marks on walls, clean the areas around door handles, and make sure there are no cobwebs in the corners.  The windows should be cleaned.  Just as important is to tackle and remove house clutter.  In addition to cleaning, be sure to handle any maintenance issues before the appraiser arrives.  Replace burnt-out light bulbs, touch-up paint where necessary, and complete any outstanding home repairs.

In addition to making sure your home presents well, be prepared to share important information about how well you’ve maintained your home with your appraiser.  Make a list of all of the home improvement projects you’ve done since moving into the home.  They will have access to the last appraisal that was made of the home when you purchased it, and this will help the appraiser to know ways in which you’ve added value to the home.  This could include major renovations to kitchens, bathrooms and basements, but also more minor improvements such as painting, window and door replacement, and landscaping.

Finally, be sure to be present in your home during the appraisal.  This way you can answer any questions your appraiser may have, especially regarding improvements you’ve made to the home.  

In the last article, we discussed how to select the proper equipment for a DIY deck cleaning project.  In this article, we will address how to use the equipment properly to achieve your desired results without damaging your deck.  Before beginning, be sure to remove all grills, furniture, planters and other items from your deck.  Any grease spills from your grill should be pre-treated with a solution of dish soap.

Before applying cleanser to the deck, rinse the deck with water.  This will aid the cleanser in spreading easily once it is applied.  Then, use the scrub brush to apply cleanser to the deck.  Most of the work of cleaning the deck will be done by the cleanser, not the pressure washer itself.   Many cleaning solutions should not be allowed to dry on the wood, so be sure to closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions and periodically mist if necessary.  Typically the manufacturer will recommend a soaking time of 20 minutes to enable the cleanser to adhere to the embedded dirt.

After waiting the recommended time for the cleanser to soak, it is time to rinse the deck.  It is important to not let the cleanser soak too long, as this can cause damage to the wood.  When first engaging the trigger of the pressure washer, point it away from the deck, people and other objects.  If the sprayer is pointed directly at th e deck when first engaged, scarring on the deck surface can result.

Cleaning is typically started where the deck is adjacent to the house.  Begin sweeping by starting from the edge, then sweep the sprayer out from the house and then back toward it, being careful to maintain a consistent distance between the nozzle tip and the deck to ensure an even result.  A typical sweeping section might be about 3 feet wide.  Once the first 3 foot section along the length of the house is completed, the next 3 foot strip can be begun. 

A technique called “feathering” can be used to prevent lines from appearing between two sweeping sections.  To do this, make sure the second sweep overlaps the first sweep, working with the grain or length of the board.  An alternative to the sweeping technique is the long sweep, whereby you walk the entire length of a board, making sure to hold the nozzle at a consistent length from the surface.  It will typically take a few sweeps to complete one board in this manner.  After the whole deck has been washed, allow it to dry for 24 hours, and then re-inspect.  Imperfections that were invisible when the deck is wet may appear, and it may be necessary to re-clean some areas.

Next Up: Part 3—Sanding and Sealing

Carlton Cleans is now using the Fatboy Bandit for both cleaner distribution and water rinse for every deck refinishing project. Our new system is an electric pump based system operating at 50 psi. but with 8 gallons a min of flow. This allows us to clean and rinse faster with minimum noise, no combustion fumes and best of all no high water pressure causing wood fiber damage. The best wood finishing processes due not need gas powered pressure washing equipment. 

The rain this spring has slowed deck staining in Potomac, MD. Carlton Cleans is cleaning as many decks as possible in preparation for dry weather. Here are some pictures of Potomac Deck Refinishing in process.

Part 1—Selecting the Equipment As a homeowner with a deck, you know that if you want to maintain your investment you will have to periodically clean and seal it. The only question is whether you choose to hire a professional or to do it on your own. In this series of articles, we’ll explain what you should know if you’re considering taking on the challenge yourself. The first decision to make is the type of pressure washer to use. The minimum power you’ll need to effectively clean the deck is 1500 PSI (pounds per square inch). Either a hot or cold water pressure washer may be used. Many contractors will recommend using a washer in the 2800 to 3200 PSI range, but with added pressure comes added potential for damaging the deck. If too much force is applied, it is possible to remove a considerable amount of wood from the surface of the deck, leaving behind a deep gash mark. So if you don’t have experience with the equipment a lower PSI setting is preferable. There are a range of nozzle tips available. The tips convert the stream of water into a fan shape that spreads the water (and pressure) out over a wider area. 0 degrees produces a tight, concentrated and highly pressurized stream that will damage wood and should never be used on a deck. 15 degrees produces a relatively tight fan for use in tough cleaning jobs. This size is frequently used by professionals, but may be too strong for an inexperienced user. A 40 to 60 degree tip will produce wider fans that work well for home users. The next thing to consider is which type of deck cleaner to select. There is a huge variety available to choose from, including detergents, bleaches and even chemical solutions which will perform specific reactions with different types of wood. Some are biodegradable, and will not damage the lawn or flowers around your deck. The cleaner you choose will be based on a variety of factors, including the type of material your deck is made of, the age of your deck, and the level of soil. As a DIY’er, you will need to carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for a variety of cleaners before selecting the one that will best fit your needs. Finally, you need to choose the right brush. You will need a stiff bristle brush with a long handle. A synthetic brush is a better choice than natural bristle depending on the cleaning solution you choose, because many cleaners will deteriorate a natural bristle brush. Depending on the design of your deck, you may need more than one brush to adequately reach all surfaces. Next Up: Part 2–Cleaning the Deck