Records of the Naval Historical Center show that the flat hat was authorized in 1852, was standard throughout the American Civil War, and remained in use long after white headgear – much later given the “Dixie cup hat” appellation – was introduced as an alternative in 1886.
At first, flat hats were made of dark blue wool known as Metcalf serge. If the skipper permitted, a white cover could be attached to the top of the hat to protect the wearer from sunlight during periods of warm weather. After white hats were added to Navy issue, many sailors received both flat hats and white hats. The choice between the two depended upon the whim of skippers at sea and shore-based commanders.
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