Several of my clients have asked me about lead paint in their homes.  Though there is a plethora of information about this on the internet, I wanted to jot down some information and place it on this site.

Most of us realize that lead is bad, especially for children under 6 years of age.  EPA Site

If you are living in a home or contemplating purchasing a home that was built prior to 1978, chances are high that the paint (exterior and interior) contains lead.

There are a couple of ways to determine if your home has lead paint.  The first way is to hire someone with an X-ray fluorescent scanning device.  Now, I'm all about small business and capitalism, but this could be an expensive proposition.

The second method is to purchase a lead paint test kit (swab) from your local home improvement store.  The kits range from $5 - $12 and according to an article in Consumer Reports do a decent job.  CR Article

So what do you do if you find lead in your paint?

Well, you can hire a lead remediation and removal company.  Their job is to use necessary methods to scrape or sand the paint and remove it from the home.  They also have to remove all of the dust that is created (because that is where your children can ingest the lead).  This is an expensive option to the average homeowner.

Another method leaves the lead paint in place and seals it with a line of products called "encapsulants".  These products are applied and then painted with a fresh coat of lead-free paint.

According to information I found on the internet, the average homeowner can save up to 80% of the cost of remediation/removal by applying encapsulating paint themselves.

Unfortunately, here in Tyler, I have been unable (as of this writing) to find a company that carries any of the encapsulating products.  As a matter of fact, each paint store I called, merely recommended priming the surface with a quality primer.  Each stated that this would be "good enough" to seal the wall.

Fortunately, the internet is at our finger-tips and I was able to find some products.

ChildGuard
http://www.hytechsales.com/prod1100.html
http://www.castlewholesalers.com/PEEL-AWAY-4000-LEAD-STOP-Lead-Encapsulating-Paint-5-Gal-.html

Here are a few links that may help:

http://www.health.state.ny.us/environmental/lead/lead_encapsulants.htm

Bob Vila's site

Hopefully this will give some preliminary information to aid you in finding what you need.  Please feel free to use it and good luck.

Sincerely,
Bruce
www.TylerHomeInspector.com

The garage.

The domain of every man (for many of us...our only domain).

Filled with tools, cars, motorcycles, hunting and fishing gear (deer heads), sport equipment, bikes, toys, posters, model trains, barbells, memories and every conceivable thing a man might need or thinks he needs....I digress.

The garage is inspected very similarly to most rooms in the home. The walls, ceilings and floors are examined; however, more grace is given. Generally the walls in the garage are nicked, dinged and sometimes damaged for a variety of reasons - many of which have to do with human error. The floor generally will have more cracking (and sometimes larger). Think about it: vehicles weighing several thousands of pounds are parked on top of it. Now if the cracks in the concrete are very large or one side is higher than another, then there may be a reason for further examination.

The garage door and opener are examined. I want to make sure the door opens and closes as smoothly as possible regardless of the door's age. I examine aluminum doors for dents and creases. Cracked glass, broken springs, pulleys, cables, tracks and guides wheels are inspected for proper operation. If the door has an automatic opener, it is operated up and down. The automatic reversing feature is also tested to ensure that the door will raise if it strikes an object. This is a common item that I write up. A national garage door opener association recommends that door opener sensors (electric eyes) be 6 inches off of the floor. I add two inches to this saying that 4-6 inches is recommended. The reason? I have personal knowledge of children and pets who have been injured (or worse in the case of pets) because the eye sensor height was too high.

Another item that many people miss is having a fire-rated door between the living space and the garage OR between the garage and the attic entrance. Any fire in the garage needs to be contained as long as possible without spreading to the attic or to the inhabitable living space.

Extra equipment, such as the water heater, the electrical panel, the central vacuum, etc..., is sometimes located in the garage. I'll discuss these items individually in a later blog.

Take care,

Bruce the home inspector

www.TylerHomeInspector.com

I decided to be grammatically correct.  Having a degree in English, the last four blog titles always bothered me.  I figured everyone knew what was meant.  Anyway...

After climbing out of the attic, I begin with the kitchen.  Because the dishwasher takes longer to complete its cycle, I examine it first and prepare to operate it.  If there are dirty dishes in it, I will put some detergent in the cup and wash them (I don't put them up.).  I also start the oven and set it for 350 deg.  The state of Texas requires me to measure the oven's temperature at 350 deg.  If it is off by more than 25 deg. either way, then I write it up.  I examine the remaining appliances (cooktops, vent-a-hoods, trash compactors, etc...) in the kitchen as well as the walls, ceilings, floors, doors, etc...

After completing the kitchen, I systematically move throughout the home.  In each room I inspect the windows, walls, floors, ceilings and doors.  I'm specifically looking for signs of settling in the home; however, I also want to make sure that everything is operational.  Permanent electric fixtures and outlets are inspected to ensure operability as well as to determine if they are wired properly.  Fireplaces are examined to the best of my ability; however, I always recommend to have further inspection by a certified chimney sweep (CSIA).

Of course the bathrooms receive all of the above attention plus I look at the water fixtures, drains and exhaust fans/heaters.  I'm looking at and for many things, but the main culprits are leaks, slow drains, bad grout issues.  If there is a whirlpool bathtub, the most common problem is the lack of access to the pump.  In case I've inspected your home and you wondered why I noted that the toilet was loose... This is another requirement by the state of Texas.

Next time we'll talk about the garage!

See you later!

Bruce

www.TylerHomeInspector.com

After climbing on the roof, I normally head toward the attic. One of the reasons is heat. On those typical, hot, Texas summer days, an attic can reach temperatures near 200 degrees! Personally, I want to have time to look over as much of the attic as possible, so it's best to get in there while it's still early in the day.

The structure of the attic can tell a great deal about the framing contractor. If I see sloppy construction methods for the roof structure, that may indicate the walls weren't framed well either; however, if good construction techniques are visible in the attic, that usually means the framing crew "cared" about providing a quality product. I do occasionally find a broken piece of attic framing or, in older homes, sagging rafters. These can usually be repaired with little fuss.

The attic also provides the best view for determining if leaks are occuring during rainstorms. I try to look around every single penetration (vent pipes, chimneys, etc...) for wet, stained or damaged wood.

Ventilation is another factor that is considered. One square foot of opening is recommended for every 150 square feet of attic space. Most homes fail here. One or two turbine vents are all that I generally see. Occasionally a home will have a ridge vent or gable vents. However, unless you are purchasing a home with the newer foam-sprayed insulation, you will want to ensure that your home "breathes" adequately.

Insulation should be compared to a sponge. There is only so much heat that your insulation sponge can hold. Once the insulation is "full", the heat has nowhere to go but into your home through the sheetrock. Hopefully the rest of the heat can pass back out through the ventilation openings. Becuase Texas has really hot summers, the recommended minimum amount of insulation is about an R-40. Whether the insulation is blown-in, batts or some other newer method, I want to be able to tell my clients what they should expect in the way of insulating performance.

If there is any HVAC equipment or plumbing equipment in the attic, I begin inspecting it as well. But I'll save that particular discussion for another day.

Stay Tuned,

Bruce

www.TylerHomeInspector.com

Let's take a look at the roof! 

I generally schedule appointments early in the day for a couple of reasons.  One of those reasons is that the roof is cooler and I am less likely to damage the shingles when walking on them.

I look for many items but I always look for the "usual suspects".  The most common issue I see are roof nails or staples that have not been sealed (with an appropriate roofing sealant).  There are several other common issues that I continually see.  I'm listing a few of them here in no particular order.

• Missing shingles
• Previous, unreported roof repairs
• Roof jacks (lead sleeves that cover vent pipes) that have been chewed by critters
• Shingles turned the wrong way at the edges or in the valleys
• Chimneys that do not have adequate flashing
• Hail damage
• Gutters that are full of debris

This list represents only a few of the items that I have found during the course of a roof inspection.

I do try to walk on all roofs, but not all roofs are friendly for walking; some are downright hostile! Personally, I am able to walk on most roofs; however, I am unable to walk on very steep roofs, tile roofs or metal roofs.  For these, I generally view them from the ground with binoculars or, if possible, from a ladder.  Also, I never get on a roof during a rain or when the shingles are wet.

Ultimately the goal is to find any current or potential problems with your roof.  While it is not always possible to find minor leaks with the naked eye (especially on a sunny day), I do work hard to examine the roof as thoroughly as possible.

Stay tuned,
Bruce

www.TylerHomeInspector.com

Hello,

This is the first in a series of what I look for when inspecting a home.  Keep in mind, here in Texas, we are governed by the Texas Real Estate Commission and must use their Standards of Practice.  Since these are really just the "minimum standards", I try to go above and beyond in several areas.  So let's get started.

The walk to the front door....

As I get out of my truck, I begin looking at the grading of the home.  What I want to know is:  which way does the water flow?  Does it flow toward the home or away?  Are there low spots close to the foundation?  Are there low spots that make walking along the sidewalk incovenient (and soggy)?

I also get an overall view of the roofing.  Many times I can see that a roof has been previously repaired by noticing the slight shading differences of the shingles (or sometimes it's very blatant).

The closer I get to the home I begin looking at the siding or veneer for cracking, settling and any obvious signs of damage or disrepair.  I look at the flower beds for cleanliness.  Many times I am able to tell how well a home is kept by the appearance of the flower beds.

As I stand at the front door, I take in the door and any windows - again looking for obvious signs.  Then I ring the door bell...

Stay tuned,

Bruce

www.TylerHomeInspector.com

There is no question; the process can be stressful.

A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind but often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information in a short time. This often includes a written report, checklist, photographs, environmental reports and what the home inspector himself says during the inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself makes the experience even more overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax.  Most of your home inspection report will cover maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are nice to know about.

However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

1 Major defects.  An example of this would be a structural failure.

2 Things that lead to major defects.  A small roof-flashing leak, for example.

3 Things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy or insure the home.

4 Safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed.  Often a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4). You should also realize that most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection.

Please realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair items mentioned in the report. No home is perfect, so keep things in perspective. Do not kill your deal over items that ultimately do not matter. It would also be inappropriate to demand that a seller address "nit-picky" items, deferred maintenance or conditions that are already listed on the seller's disclosure.

Please take time to read the following information and thanks for stopping by!!!

3 Deadly Mistakes Every Home Buyer Should Avoid