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~ In A Land Which Nothing Is As It Seems And Cakes......My Month In Iran ~ Part One

By
Services for Real Estate Pros with Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning

Smoke and Mirrors...I was at one with it. It was nothing but a house of cards, from the initial planning stages right up to the departing flight from Iran. Secrets and lies - a resounding yes.  Discoveries and truths - a whispering nod. As it all brought me to my knees more than once.

A Tower of Silence at the Zoroastrian Burial Grounds,Yazd, Iran. I am the figure in black in the lower right.

Tower of Silence at the Zoroastrian Burial Grounds at Yadz, Iran

I had at that point in my life been to about fifty countries and lived and worked in the Middle East for almost a decade. I visited many Muslim countries all over the world and spent a month in Malyasia, time in Egypt, Jordan, Syria, the list is long.  But nothing prepared me for Iran. The jewel in the crown which pierced my temples as I wore it; forever altering my consciousness long after the precious headress was discarded. In the snow, Iran

  At the mountains in Iran.

 

 I should have know something was in store for me in that country. While in Damascus at the Iranian Embassy where our visas were issued, an Orthodox nun, proudly wearing her full habit, would periodically waltz in and out of the building all the while bossing everyone around. The Iranians rewarded her with tea and laughter while she was there and miraculously the smiles did not disappear quickly as she left. That should have been my first clue.

 

  My male traveling companion pretended to be my husband while we were there.  He is gay,  I was married to my ex-husband at that time.  See, we were hopelessly in sync with the smoke and....So we begin our travels throughout Iran with our dedicated guide.  Ebby, an Iranian who lived in Germany for the last twelve years and is blond due to his Russian ancestry.  We all travel together traversing the country, in an Iranian montaged car that looks like, but does not sound like a Chevy Nova. It appeared as if three Westerners, Americans in this case, were on holiday...with no American Embassy, no American money or credit cards accepted and only the Swiss embassy on Wednesdays, between noon and 2:00 pm, possibly offering any assistance if things turned bad.

 Truck Driver in Iran with "women" on either side of the license platd

Truck drivers are the same all over. Check out the "babes" on either side of the license plate.

 

John Secor
EXIT Real Estate Results - Winter Springs, FL

Michelle -

take me, take me!  I have made it my rule to never go anywhere if I can't say it or spell it but.....

Jul 01, 2009 01:08 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Hi Chris, it was a great trip, one I remember with fondness and amazement. In many ways, it was one my most favorite trips as it is a country with hidden pockets of deep beauty. It is also a rugged country with varied topography, delicious food, and countless treasures.  Some of the architecture and tile and stone work alone is staggeringly gorgeous. Will be happy to show you.

Jul 01, 2009 03:13 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Well John, it's about time you got rid of a silly rule like that.  I don't know if I believe you anyway, you forget I read and comment on your "other" blogs... I also want to go to Libya, are you still interested? What can I say, I love the ancient ruins. Guess where I got married the first and last time? On Mount Olympus, in Cyprus.  I know, I'm hopeless in my quest.

Jul 01, 2009 03:57 PM
Patrick Scott
OConnor Title Guaranty, Inc. - Chicago, IL

Riviting Post, Michelle!  I am looking forward to part two.  It's good to hear first-hand accounts of a people who we only meet, through our media, in an unfavorable light.

Jul 01, 2009 04:06 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Carolyn, Uzbekistan has one of my most favorite things. I will blog about them. I adore them. 18th and 19th century silk ikats.  Here are a few from my collection.  The silk threads are painted on the loom in sections and then woven with other silk threads that are dyed to create a pattern. They are woven in around 16" widths and then sewn together for large pieces for decoration and architectural panels and clothes for the very wealthy were also made from them.  Even in the 19th century, it was a punishable crime in Uzbekistan for a person to wear an ikat if their social standing was not on par with the quality of the weaving. How's that for quality control on a grand scale? Here are two  - and a detail. The more colors, the more valuable, the more difficult the design, etc. Probably two is more than enough for the uninitiated.  I love these instead of art sometimes with either mid century or antique French furniture or very contemporary furniture.

Early 19th century Silk Ikat from Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan Silk Ikat from the 19th centurydetail form Uzbekistan ikat

Jul 01, 2009 04:24 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Hi Patrick, I do so know what you mean. It is frightening how we let others form opinions for us, that later morph into half -truths, then one day crystallizes into facts. Very convenient for everyone, except for the target.  Which we know is always moving.

Jul 01, 2009 04:48 PM
Terry Haugen STAGE it RIGHT! 321-956-2495
Stage it Right! - Melbourne, FL

Michelle, I would like to go to Kazikstan.  I have a couple of really good friends from The Czech Republic who are dying to take me "home" for a visit.  Kazikstan seems so intriguing and is relatively close by. Na zdravi!

Jul 02, 2009 01:57 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Terry Don't pass up a great opportunity like that. You will be in the best possible company, people from there. I would jump if I had a chance like that.  The last trip I took was to Prague and Budapest, two years ago, if I were you, I would visit those with them too, if you have time, they are intriguing as well, but Central Asia ~ magical.

Jul 03, 2009 04:48 AM
Shirley Parks
Sands Realty 210-414-0966 - San Antonio, TX
Broker, 210-414-0966, San Antonio TX Real Estate

Hi Michelle, Thanks for the photo of the "cheesecake" on either side of the license plate of the truck. 

Jul 09, 2009 04:35 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Hi Shirley, I was surprised to see this. I shot this in the car as we were driving behind the truck and was surprised to see it come out as it was a very bumpy road. Even though the women are covered up, it still is the same message isnt' it. I tried to find these decals when I was there, but couldn't,  You should have seen the shop keepers faces when I was requesting any information on how to obtain these.  It was hilarious.

Jul 09, 2009 06:00 PM
Sally Dunbar
Lyon Real Estate, Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento Area) - Fair Oaks, CA
Fair Oaks Realtor - Fair Oaks Homes for Sale

Michelle - love your tying this all into the smoke and mirrors thing.  There really is a life on the surface, then something totally different under the black.

I'm with ya baby on travel.  Travel makes you a citizen of the world. It broadens perspectives and teaches a new way to measure life. And if you think of the world as a cultural yarn shop, our most prized possessions are the strands of different cultures we knit into our own character.

Ok... I'm not so brilliant to have written the above, but I copy it into the first page of every travel journal I do.  Thanks.

Jul 27, 2009 02:56 AM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Sally, you are more than brilliant enough to write that and more.  You also possess great and contagious wit which is something that eludes most of us. In fact you should write more.  That appears to be Inna Hardison's mantra and she is usually right.  I am so humbled and pleased that you read a few blogs of mine.  Believe me, everythime I post, it is a leap of faith asI just started writing here on AR. In closing, travel is what puts it all into perspective for me. A roving classroom and I, a parched student waiting to be quenched. I hope the lessons never end.

Jul 27, 2009 04:48 AM
Sally Dunbar
Lyon Real Estate, Fair Oaks CA (Sacramento Area) - Fair Oaks, CA
Fair Oaks Realtor - Fair Oaks Homes for Sale

Michelle - I started out writing here as a lesson in stumbling along. My intent was to get business. I wrote some real estate related things, but what ended up coming out was a lot of "How I Learned" posts, deeply personal.... and deeply fulfilling.  It was a shock to discover how much I love to write. I have printed all my blogs, in case this whole website ever crashes, as they are now a part of my history... kind of like a diary.  There are a few I've written that blow me away in terms of expressing things I've always felt.  Like the one about my brother, and the one about my Mom.  Yet  I feel that when I write them, as opposed to tell them, they take on a life of their own.  I'm able to craft them exactly as they should be.

I've decided I don't care if I get business from this.  I just need to be who I am, and say it in the way I am compelled to be.  I also throw in some pure statistic stuff.... hey I am a realtor, after all.

You are clearly doing the same.  You have such a rich way of seeing the conceptul layers of a subject, and of your experiences. I'm your newest fan!

 

Jul 27, 2009 06:27 AM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Sally, it would be hard to believe that you don't get business from your blogs. It is what positions you more intimately and transparently than another Realtor who is more opaque in their approach. I see your blogs as a yellow brick road, a path to getting and keeping clients.

If I were looking to buy or sell, I would view your blog as a horn of plenty. Many professionals in my area are very concerned with their "perfect" image and it becomes as plastic as their smile. I know, not nice, but I do live in Scottsdale...Believe me, I deal with them by proxy with my high end design clients as well as with my plant based carpet and air duct cleaning company. These particular professionals and some are Realtors would never render a tell of any sort about themselves unless it is highly scripted.

I love your candor and impish take on much of what you explore. I find it refreshing and optmisitic. Traits we could all use more of.

Jul 27, 2009 01:41 PM
Not a real person
San Diego, CA

Wow. Deception. And with a gay companion. And in Iran. What a story. Thoroughly enjoyed it. I'm one of those who can't see myself going to a foreign country, although I have made it to Tijuana, Vancouver, and Toronto. I look forward to the future days of virtual reality so that I can visit Greece, Egypt, Russia, and others without leaving the comfort of my desk chair and Zoey the Cool Cat on the printer next to me.

Zoey the Cool Cat on her printer

Jul 27, 2009 09:21 PM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Hi Russel, it's been awhile since we crossed paths. Nice to see you.  This was a great trip and my friend who was with me is my dearest friend. We travel together frequently as we both love adventure near and far. I am looking forward to posting more installments to this trip. Thanks for stopping by.

Jul 28, 2009 03:54 PM
Robert L. Brown
www.mrbrownsellsgr.com - Grand Rapids, MI
Grand Rapids Real Estate Bellabay Realty, West Mic

Looks as though you had a great time. BTW how was the food over there?

Nov 08, 2009 09:34 AM
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

Hi Robert, it's nice to meet you.  How did you even find this blog, it was written so long ago! I had a great time, which I know sounds so strange. Iran is a fascinating country and visually rich with natural physical beauty and astonishing man made structures that are mind boggling due to the the intricacies of the structure or the surface materials.

It's funny you ask about the food.  I love to cook and I love to eat, and I love to talk about food. I know... The food in Iran is a tasty puzzle. Iranian food is the most varied in the Middle East with Lebanese food coming in second. Iran has such arid land, that their cuisine has the most variety, freshness and creativity.  I could write a whole blog about that food, but to state it simply, they use ingredients in such novel ways. Their food is hearty, refined, savory, and the ingredients all stand expressively on their own. They understand the pairing of flavors very well. They have the best way to prepare rice, the best pistachios in the world, they actually invented pistachio ice cream and they invented wine in Shiraz. and they have excellent caviar in the north.

So, here are a few of my favorite dishes -

Fesenjun,is a sauce made with pureed walnuts, crushed pomegranate molasses, and spices with a slightly creamy consistency and is delicious served over any anything, but primarily over chicken.

Zereshk pollo, is a saffron chicken an d barbarry rice. 

They are big meat eaters and vegetable lovers and have all kinds of grilled meat dishes. I could go on and on, so will stop before I get carried away with all this food talk. But if you would like some recipes, email me and I will be happy to email them to you and walk you and yours through any recipe.

 

 

 

Nov 08, 2009 03:16 PM
Anonymous
Malu Samii

Dear Michelle

 i hope u remember me. It's me Malu from IRAN.i have been looking for u for a long time.  i have something that belongs to u and i have kept it for u. ur Carpet. i couldn't send it for u.

i hope u'll get the message. now that i have ur phone number i will call u.

please send me an email .

regards

malu

Dec 13, 2009 06:37 AM
#29
Michelle Viggiano
Four Winds Healthy Home Carpet & Air Duct Cleaning - Scottsdale, AZ
healthyhomeaz

My dearest Malu, I am so excited and stunned to hear from you.  Patrick and I were talking about our trip and you, just the other day. Honestly, we were. I hope you and your family are safe and well.  Many in your country have faced such difficult challenges recently, and our collective thoughts are with you. 

I would like to thank you for the wonderful time you showed us in your country.  It was the best trip I have ever taken, such beautiful and expressive times we spent there are indelible in my memory. I would also like to express my gratitude with regards to the items we were not able to ship out.  I am so very grateful that you have kept them. Your honesty and integrity are your jewels and your wear yours beautifully. Please email at my email address - healthyhomeaz@msn.com  I will be very happy to get in touch with you.  All my kindest regards, Michelle 

Dec 13, 2009 01:33 PM